Wednesday, 26 February 2014

BTW I'm a Makeup Student..

So as I was sitting here on my couch avoiding a few tedious responsibilities and reading some famous beauty blogs - I won't name them because what I have to say isn't extremely kind #sorrynotsorry
Anyway, skipping over their boring ramblings about the candles in their rooms or how they put their hair in a bun, I decided to investigate what products they use and what they tend to say about products in general.

What I then realized that I have failed to mention, is that I am in fact studying professional makeup artistry and special effects (at a real college and everything!) I did intend on doing this course (full time for six months) as an almost 'filler-inner' while I wait to go to university in September while all my friends (all 3 of them) start university in February - the South African school system is dumb. Anyway, upon arriving at makeup school I realized two things:

1. Liza you are wearing far too little makeup compared to this crowd i.e. the other students

2. Liza, you completely and utterly underestimated this course.

I say the latter because I was promptly handed a textbook which was apparently one of three. This textbook contains serious things like the bones, the skin, the muscles, skin diseases, colour theory and all sorts of academic stuff.. Not the 'when to use sparkles' that I had imagined. I also say this because I soon understood that I was now in the dreaded and anticipated 'adult world'. I have to plan professional photo shoots and models and portfolios and business cards and all very serious things.

It is extremely fun too! How many of us get to 'play' with makeup everyday with a bunch of other makeup enthusiasts and have the best in the industry share their secrets with you?

It is because of these 'secrets' that I have heard and witnessed, that makes me mildly appalled at some of these self-proclaimed 'makeup gurus'.

One of the first things that one learns is what is in the products. You NEED to know what you are putting on your skin. All these women have so many followers and they are recommending products that they don't even know what is in them.

I do get the appeal of 'normal women' giving honest advice and reviews about products. I get it. But after reading various posts for over three hours.. and thats just today… for the most part… THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT.

Since there is so so so much to say about all the products I figured I would start with ..

FOUNDATIONS

There are many places in the makeup world where one can 'cut corners' in terms of spending. Foundation is NOT one of them. Foundation makes or breaks your look. And look at it this way… this is the product that is going over your whole face. Therefore you need to know that what you are smearing all over your face is firstly: safe. Secondly: effective. Thirdly: long lasting.

The foundations that you buy at drug stores, pharmacies or whatever you want to call it will not cut it. It will not live up to those three necessities. Most of all, long lasting.

Something else that is important to know in the new land of 'selflies' is that: a foundation that has an SPF will photograph white (this links to colour theory and the science behind sunscreen that is highly boring and unnecessary). This tends to look the worst on dark skin, it almost photographs grey/gray. I am definitely not saying that you should not wear n SPF. But I would rather suggest to opt for a Primer with an SPF as you will still have the protection but not the dead looking skin :)

BTW primer is a whole other topic that I intend to delve into later on.

there are three main types:

1. Liquid
2. Cream
3. Compact

Depending on need for coverage as well as the look one is going for one would opt for one of those three.

LIQUID

Liquid foundation would be used if one did not need lots of coverage and just wanted an even and glowing finish. Good liquid foundations are few and far between. Typically, I am not a fan of MAC's foundations, for a number of reasons:


  • They don't tend to look that great 
  • They are quite heavy 
  • The sales people never ever give you the right colour 
  • MAC is known for not being the most 'skin friendly' because of the heavy chemicals in it 
  • It seems overpriced to me 
HOWEVER 

Like most things in life there is one exception: 

MAC FACE & BODY


It is super liquidy and is a light application but can be layered to be thicker. One of the beautiful things about this product is that the more and more you blend it the more and more it glows! 

Makeup Forever has a product by the same name and is just, if not more, as beautiful as MAC's. It is slightly more expensive but if you are someone who does only apply a thin layer it lasts ages :) 


Those are the two liquid foundations that I feel are both value for money and long lasting. Inglot has also had some success, however, one needs to be careful with what products they mix with Inglot products as it does tend to be a tiny bit 'finicky'. For example, a MAC powder won't sit very well on an Inglot foundation. 

*A side note in terms of foundation colours - makeup is based on the theory that people either have red/pink undertones or yellow/orange undertones. Makeup is made in this way too. MAC for example, in their codes there is 'C' or 'W' meaning cool or warm. Bobbi Brown however disagrees with this concept. Bobbi Brown's products only have yellow undertones because they work on the theory of 'who wants to look sunburnt?'. Through more and more exploration I am swinging towards the same opinion.*

CREAM FOUNDATIONS 

I think that these are the most commonly opted for. And rightly so, because they offer coverage but are still fluid enough for an easy application. The consistency of these can vary. The thickest being an almost toothpastey consistency. These products also tend to be oil based and sometimes contains wax (as opposed to the liquids water base) but of course there are exceptions. 

I have more of a list of 'do nots' more so than 'do's' 

DO NOT BUY CHEAP CREAM FOUNDATIONS like revlon, maybelline, rimmel, stila etc etc. They are not considered 'professional products' and thus lack the quality needed. 

It is also widely said that MAC gel foundation offers extremely good coverage i.e. Studio Sculpt 



I do not personally use it because it is quite heavy for my skin, but other people swear by it. 

In my professional kit I have a big palette of Mehron. It is the range called Celebre HD Pro Foundation. At first, I wasn't the biggest fan of it and I think that that was purely because I wasn't used to the consistency of it. But.. I am now a reformed Mehron lover. This foundation is SO adaptable. And once again, the more you blend it the more it glows and looks majestic. They are highly pigmented and have an oily base. But, you can still achieve a very thin application. Their colours also work really really well for asian and african skin - which is sometimes rare. 

An individual foundation 

What my kit looks like 


Another 2 brands that I would HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend is obviously any skin product from Bobbi Brown and secondly, Clarins. Personally, depending the other coverage I require or the look I'm going for, I opt for Clarins. It is considered for 'older' skin but I feel like thats silly. It is a BEAUTIFUL product, in all of its forms. Again, the more you blend it, the more it glows. They are both really high quality makeup brands and have huge value for money, as well as being 'skin friendly'. 

Lastly… 

COMPACT/CAKE FOUNDATION 

This is obviously the most pigmented of all the foundations. It normally is the most 'powdery'. I find that this kind of foundation works best for dark skin, skin with pigmentation that needs to be covered and sometimes old skin. 

FOR DARK SKIN

1. IMAN 
2. Kryolan 
3. Bobbi Brown 

As a makeup artist, I have recently been introduced to the wonders on IMAN foundation - yes, Iman the supermodel. Iman's compact foundations are based on the philosophy that you don't need to set the foundation afterwards with powder. However, me having trust issues, do it anyway. Her colours names work within 'Earth' i.e. red/pink undertones and 'Clay' i.e. yellow undertones. 

I have personally seen the IMAN foundation in action and let me tell you.. it is MAGNIFICENT. For both young and old skin. HOWEVER, only for darker skin. 


Kryolan is a professional brand that I feel is sometimes very misunderstood. However, their compact foundations are also amazing. They are super duper uber pigmented and cover anything and everything. But when applied nicely, it looks flawless and matt and pretty and all those good things. 
It also works so so well for indian, black and asian skin. Which once again, is a rarity. However, unlike IMAN the lighter colours also work beautifully. Another thing that must be said about Kryolan is that it is the IDEAL product for sensitive skin. It has no bad 'crap' in it. It is literally impossible for skin to react to it. It's fantastic. Truly. And that goes for all Kryolan products. Also, once again, amazing value for money. Especially considering it is a professional brand. 


This is what a palette looks like but you can buy individual colours in three different sizes.


A note to be made about Kryolan though is that their codes MAKE NO SENSE. Truly. You have to test the colours on yourself. It;s not like MAC with their nifty C's and W's. BUT the Kryolan employees are always super clued up and down to earth and helpful. 

*Another side note: I haven't put pictures of Bobbi Brown or Clarins purely because all the products are great and therefore would require excessive amounts of pictures* 

My final DO NOT.. for now anyway :P 

DO NOT. I repeat DO NOT use any type of "mousse" foundation or blush or whatever on your face. It is awful. It is just a silly gimmick from non-professional brands. Don't bother wasting your money on gimmicks. 

A great foundation can completely change or enhance your look. Do not underestimate a good foundation. 

I hope that this little rant has helped at least one person. That would be so fantastic :)

I will do more posts on other things like "The uselessness of buying a concealer" and "Primers" and all that fun stuff 

xox



1 comment:

  1. What I failed to mention is that Kryolans base is WATERPROOF. Literally go swimming underwater and come out looking exactly the same waterproof. It's amazing. Especially for people who sweat a lot or are a teeny bit menopausal :D

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